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Route of the Volaia Pass

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Points of interest along this itinerary:

The Volaia Pass is one of the main crossing points of the Alps in Carnia, marking the border between Italy and Austria. Located in the western area of the Carnic Alps, it is characterized by the presence of a small glacial lake, the Volaia Lake, and by the monumental cliffs of Mt. Capolago and Mt. Coglians, the tallest peak in Friuli Venezia Giulia (2780 metres ASL). Due to the beautiful environment and easy access, Volaia Pass is definitely one of the most fascinating mountains in the region.
 
Besides its natural beauty, this is also an ideal destination for all history lovers. Several remains dating back to the Great War have recently been discovered here indeed. This pass was disputed by the two armies to prevent possible reciprocal invasion: first occupied by the Habsburg Army on 23rd May 1915, it was then conquered by the Italians during the first weeks of war; the Italians kept their positions here until the defeat of Caporetto.
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HE LAMBERTENGHI-ROMANIN SHELTER IS ON THE PASSO VOLAIA, A FEW METRES FROM THE AUSTRIAN BORDER. THE NAME IS REMINISCENT OF TWO ITALIAN LIEUTENANTS WHO FOUGHT HERE AND IN PARTICULAR, LAMBERTENGHI, WHO FELL IN THE SUMMER OF 1915 RIGHT ON THE PASSO VOLAIA.
The route starts from the Tolazzi cabin (1350 metres ASL.), which can be reached by car past Collina (a hamlet of Forni Avoltri). Behind the cabin, you can see the departure point of the old military road, characterized by wide turns and moderate slope, leading to the fork where CAI trails No.143 and No.144 begin. Turn left and take the latter, then start climbing uphill to Volaia Pass in the woods. This route can be shortened by taking a detour, signalled as "Detour CAI trail No. 144", which can be found on the right, past the fourth hairpin bend (a shorter but steeper and less scenic route).

After about an hour walk, the vegetation is replaced by stones and you can take in superb views of the pass and the majestic cliffs of Mt. Coglians and Mt. Capolago. Once you reach the crossroad between the trail and the short cut (1640 metres ASL), start climbing the last stretch uphill, slightly steeper but rapidly leading to a promontory (1900 metres ASL), where you can see the ruins of some Italian military buildings, the first remains of the Great War on this pass. Past the fork with the Spinotti trail (leading to the Marinell cabin), continue straight and in about 10 minutes you will reach the Lambertenghi-Romanin cabin (dedicated to two soldiers who fell here during the Great War) and the Volaia Pass (1977 metres ASL), with is picturesque blue lake and the imposing Italian trench, recently brought to light by some volunteers. Inside, you can find a 32mm gun position and a 42mm gun position and machine gun pit. Expert hikers may want to take a track leading to the western side of Mt. Coglians and to a military post in a tunnel.

Outside the entrenched system, continue to the lake shore (1950 metres ASL). This walk offers beautiful sights, with the intense blue of the waters joining the vivid colours of meadows, flowers and rocks all around. Follow the trail along the shoreline and, in about 10 minutes, reach the Pichl cabin and the monument to the Carinthian volunteers on the Frauenhügel, the rocky cape behind it. From here, you can see the peaks of Mt. Capolago, Mt. Sasso Nero, Mt. Volaia and Mt. Biegen Kopfe.

Complete your tour around the lake and then take CAI trail No. 144, which will take you back to the Tolazzi cabin in an hour or so.
 
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THE VIEW OF THE VOLAIA LAKE AND, IN THE FOREGROUND, THE REMAINS OF THE BARBED WIRE DATING BACK TO THE GREAT WAR
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