Muggia: a feast of pilchards

Food

19 December 2018

Food

Muggia: a feast of pilchards

Did you know that Muggia is the southernmost municipality in my wonderful region?

Did you know that from here you can enjoy the most beautiful sunset over the Upper Adriatic Sea? And that the famous “Carneval de Muja” (Triestine dialect meaning Muggia Carnival) was first documented in the municipal statutes of 1420? And that fish, especially pilchards, the ones as long as the span of your hand and highly popular throughout the Trieste area, are not to be missed? I didn’t know many of these things and I wanted to try everything for you… it’s true! With its harbour as the hub of town life, this charming town by the sea on the extreme border with Slovenia and easily reached from Trieste thanks to frequent trips by the “Delfino Verde” motorboat or bus lines, is certainly worth visiting for the day to have a feast of fish. The fishermen of the town, attentive and respectful of the sea and the seasons, supply trattorias and restaurants in every corner of its centre. There is something for all tastes: from the most basic “ittiturismo” (fish restaurant) run by the fishermen’s Cooperative to the refurbished trattoria with blue and white tablecloths and furniture, with its marine atmosphere, and the most innovative restaurant opposite the harbour or near the Castle. For everyone, the watchword is plenty of fresh fish.

On arriving at the harbour, Muggia Castle, standing on the horizon, caught my eye. It is a private residence owned by the sculptor Villi Bossi, who opens it to the public on the occasion of “Castelli Aperti”, a circuit to which it belongs, and it is definitely worth a visit. Wandering around the town centre, everywhere I can feel that I am in a typical town by the sea in the north-east that was under Venetian rule, historic buildings, the town hall and colours that recall the style of the ancient Serenissima Republic of Venice. I really like it! And the “cocktail” is even more sparkling, as there is an aftertaste of Veneto, an underlying base of Friuli-Venezia Giulia and a spicy hint of the border, and beyond… I have always been fascinated by amazingly unusual combinations. And you? Wandering around, you get hungry so why not try everything? We start with a soup made with “peoci scotadeo”, namely piping hot mussels with their sauce, in which you would like to dip the contents of an entire bakery rather than just a few slices of bread… we can indulge even more with pilchards “in saor”, “marinated”, “fried”, “breaded” and “grilled”… and if you love cherries, well “one leads to another” too!

Then there are all the other locally caught fish, Giuliana-style octopus… and who has any room left? And what about the rest? In this town carnival period begins with “Il ballo della verdura” (Dance of the vegetables), dating back to 1611, involving various historic companies, like the Palio of Siena, challenging each other and calling themselves “Bellezze Naturali” (Natural beauties), “Bulli e pupe” (Bulls and dolls) “La bora” (the Bora wind) and where the rule is: at carnival time, you mustn’t hide your face! Can we ever imagine that it’s not fun?

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Tiziana Fiorentino

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I am a cat, with many lives: a company manager, I participate in the organisation of food and wine events, I cook, I helm the boat, I do sports, travel, read, write and am curious to hear and share. I'm passionate about everything, but I will focus on my Top Passions that are Food, sport and slow tours.