This allows me in the evening, as soon as I finish my job, to climb from Martignacco to Moruzzo by bicycle, taking a detour through one of the most beautiful villages in Italy: Fagagna.

Amidst the chants of crickets, blackbirds and blue tits, I reach the throusand-year-old castle and then go down towards via Cecconaia and vicolo Morcjute to arrive in Piazza Unità d'Italia where a really unusual race has been held since September 1861: the “Corse dai Mus”, or donkey race.