Sappada, snow games and Saurnschotte

Food

24 January 2019

Food

Sappada, snow games and Saurnschotte

“Do you want a nice slice of black bread with some spreadable meadow?”

“Spreadable meadow? “

This is the point-blank question that Annamaria asks me when I get back to the lovely hotel where I'm staying in Sappada, in the Hoffe hamlet. I indulged in a special weekend; perhaps I waited until the town came back to being part of Friuli Venezia Giulia to visit it, and I'll admit I shouldn't have waited, because it's simply a magical place, regardless of where it is; obviously, I am even prouder of it today, as it has become a rare pearl in our region's collection of endless beauties.

You can visit this town in the Dolomites and have an afternoon of pure fun at Nevelandia, one of the largest snow playgrounds in Italy. And don't think it's just for children: I had a go on the Fat Bike trail and on the quad bike. Entrance to the park is free: you only pay for the individual rides, such as the inflatables, the bikes, and the train. And of course, you must take a picture with Sappy, the park mascot!

Then, if you are curious and equipped with a healthy dose of luck like me, you can go to Cima Sappada, on the list of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy; this hamlet is a marvel of wooden houses with colourful windows, all different; outside, they all have a puppet made of straw, jute, and other scrap materials, which is then decorated and used in the recreation of various fairy tales: “Snow White and the 7 Dwarves”, “The little match girl”, “ Sleeping beauty”, “ Pinocchio”, etc. Always because of that healthy dose of luck, a film producer invited me free of charge to the “Old House”, a replica of a house the way it used to be, where a movie will be shot for about ten days. But the movie won't be as beautiful as the emotion that I experienced entering this dark house, with small windows, a sparsely laid table (or rather, laid just with whatever few items they had), a central firepit, rough floors and the smell of the time past – something that can't be bought in any store, you have to experience it!

So to get back to the question...I'm already partial to the idea of meadow... especially these mountain meadows, rich with all sorts of herbs and aromas, the same ones I learned to recognise from my grandmother, Otilia… but I'm curious about this meadow that can be smeared on a slice of bread!

We are talking about Saurnschotte, a typical fresh cheese flavoured with perschtròmm, a variety of tarragon very common in Sappada’s vegetable gardens, with hints of mint and wild fennel.
Once upon a time, saurnschotte was made in every home to avoid wasting soured milk: it would rest for four days in cast-iron vessels on the edge of the stove, until the right consistency was achieved. The curd was drained in linen bags and finally mixed with tarragon, before being stored it in wooden tubs or jars.
It can simply be spread on black bread, or used as an ingredient in elaborate dishes. The tarragon gives it a unique flavour of mountain meadow, and it lends itself to many combinations. Locally, it is used as a filling for gapitschta kropfn, or ravioli, but it goes very well with smoked meat or crispy speck, too, and why not, with fresh-water fish and wild game, or as a topping for the pancakes typically served during Carnival.

This tradition would be lost if a few diehard supporters had not worked closely together in order to revive and preserve this product, especially Michelin-starred chef Fabrizia Meroi, updating the recipe to make it the way it's done today at Plodar Kelder (the village dairy) in accordance with modern food regulations.
But is it good? Well, come and taste it, I didn't want to leave...

And then, it gives you the fuel you need the next day to ski from the slopes of Monte Sierra to the Black Slope via the very convenient Ski Bus; there are other huts lower down if you’re looking for mountain flavours, Goulash, cheese, sausage...skiing burns calories, so you have room for grappa too (but not too many!)

Sappada was brutally hit by the bad weather, and you can see the devastation that has occurred in the woods. But you don't actually see it, you can overlook it; and this is because of the unique warmth of these people, who want to make you feel at home, even at a difficult time, but always with joy. Just go visit!!

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Tiziana Fiorentino

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I am a cat, with many lives: a company manager, I participate in the organisation of food and wine events, I cook, I helm the boat, I do sports, travel, read, write and am curious to hear and share. I'm passionate about everything, but I will focus on my Top Passions that are Food, sport and slow tours.