All the streets in Trieste lead to coffee

Food

21 March 2018

Food

All the streets in Trieste lead to coffee

To prove this, we can take a look at some aspects of the city that place it at the centre of a movement to investigate coffee in all its ramifications. A fulcrum of knowledge based on tradition, art, technique, science and sensoriality, whence a series of regular meetings held on the second Friday of each month with the Cenacolo del caffè organised by the Associazione Museo del caffè. For this reason too, Trieste is truly unique boasting a link that ties the city and its trade, the processing of green and then roasted beans, that has its roots in three centuries of history, custom and consumption.

The most intimate soul is revealed to the tourist who is attentive to these aspects which, only here, are so marked. It is a vocation, now present in the DNA of Trieste, a passion that re-emerges whatever aspect of the city is considered, so as to assure it the undisputed title of “Capital of coffee”. Walking through the streets, courtyards and squares, we could see the city as an open-air museum, and so define the area a ‘widespread exhibit’, going beyond the perimeter boundaries of a walled area. Visitors can observe to what extent Trieste is impregnated with coffee: not only exhibition objects therefore, but also architecture, streets and monuments. But what to see? We will give only one suggestion, in addition to the famous historical cafés, the tastings bars and bars, of which mention has already been made. Now let’s point out some other curiosities. We start from no 14 in Piazza della Borsa, the current headquarters of the Venezia Giulia Chamber of Commerce. This is the former goods exchange, overlooking the square of the same name and founded in 1755; this was the operational headquarters for international trade, essential for the traffic of bags filled with fine beans.

On the same open space, there is a late-nineteenth-century building, the Palazzo Dreher (named after the family behind the famous brand of beer). In 1928 it became the headquarters for stock exchange trading of local publicly quoted companies. Here too, there used to be a restaurant that, depending on the floor, could accommodate a large number of customers, divided by category. Since 2005, on the occasion of the 250th anniversary of the adjacent Chamber of Commerce to which the building belongs, it houses the Museo Commerciale on the main floor. It contains objects, pictures and documents relating to trade in Trieste. Part of the layout is dedicated to coffee, with the Museo del caffè. The Palazzo del Tergesteo is the adjacent building, built between 1840-42 at the behest of a group of wealthy shareholders of various nationalities. In 2011 the entire building was renovated and in the internal cross-shaped gallery there are shops and public businesses that bring hospitality to mind which in this city is at the highest level. Another curiosity, not far away, is the immense photograph on the wall in the Galleria Rossoni depicting the old Caffè Milano (which unfortunately no longer exists). In the image you can clearly see dignified gentlemen reading newspapers, some, depicted with a cigarette in hand. The waiters are less visible in the background. For the moment, one last reference is the Contrada dei Grigioni. This is a small square which now sees little traffic, but it is significant for the presence of ancient buildings of worship. Apart from that, it recalls the early coffee-makers who distributed a taste for the stimulating black beverage throughout Europe.

facebook twitter

Live your experience

Find out about the ideas and offers for this experience in Friuli Venezia Giulia

Where to stay

Age

Advanced Search

Gianni Pistrini

facebook

My job is to drink coffee… from morn till night. I’m a professional coffee taster and populariser. I’ve been on Italian and international TV programmes. I’m a journalist and I’ve published many articles about coffee-tasting. For about ten years I edited an Italian coffee magazine. In 2001 I created the Coffee Museum in Trieste and, recently, an association connected with the museum. Enjoy your coffee!