Technical data:
First ascenders: W. Von Glanvell and K. Von Saar, 17 September 1902
Difficulty: III and IV, 1 section V
Length: 250 m
Duration: 3 hours
Summit altitude: 2,173 m
Cartography: Carta Tabacco 1:25000 foglio n. 021 - Dolomiti Friulane e d'oltre Piave
Material: normal mountaineering equipment + a large friend (No. 3 - blue - BD)
Normal mountaineering equipment consists of:
- Individual equipment (harness, helmet, climbing shoes and belay/descender)
- 2x60m half rope
- Hammer and a bunch of pitons
- Quickdraws (1 set of nuts + 1 set of friends)
- 1 set of quickdraws (at least 10)
- Lanyards and locking carabiners for setting up belays and abseiling
Description
The first part of the ascent is quite articulated and leads over the south face along its weakest points. Once past the Pulpito Cozzi and the crack of the same name (key passage of the route), a long horizontal traverse to the left is carried out, easy technically but extremely exposed, which leads to the full west face. From here, a rope length leads to the circular balcony that encircles the summit of the Campanile. Two more rope lengths and you reach the narrow summit. All the belays are equipped with cemented rings.
Descent
takes place with double ropes along the ascent route to the balcony. From here you easily follow it northwards - on the Perugini Bivouac side - until you find the anchorage for the abseil partially in the void. The last abseil deposits in the vicinity of Tacca del Campanile, from where you return to the attack via easy scree. All abseils are equipped with cemented rings.
Mountaineering difficulty scale
Assessments are made considering the mountain in good weather conditions and with adequate physical and psychological preparation for the chosen level. The scale used is the one officially recognised by the UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations) and is based on the scale devised by W. Welzenbach in 1925, open upwards. Difficulties are assessed in free climbing, i.e. without the use of artificial means for progression. Each grade can have a further upper (+) or lower (-) subdivision.
I First grade
This is the easiest form of climbing. Often there is a passing track between the rocks, but one must already choose footing; the hands frequently use handholds to maintain balance. It is not suitable for those suffering from vertigo.
II Second grade
This is where the actual climbing begins, requiring the movement of one limb at a time and the correct setting of movements. Handholds and holds are still abundant.
III Third grade
The rock structure, already steeper or even vertical, offers fewer holds and holds and may already require the use of force. Usually the passages do not resolve themselves in an obligatory manner.
IV Fourth grade
Grips and holds become even rarer and/or scarcer. Requires good climbing technique applied to the various rock structures (chimneys, cracks, edges, etc.), as well as a certain degree of specific training.
V Fifth grade
Grips and/or holds are decidedly rare and meagre. Climbing becomes delicate (slabs, etc.) or strenuous (opposition or jamming in cracks and chimneys). Normally requires prior examination of the passage.
VI Sixth grade
Grips and/or holds are meagre and arranged in such a way as to require a particular combination of well-thought-out movements. The rock structure can force delicate climbing in adherence, or decidedly tiring where it is overhanging. It requires special training and considerable strength in the arms and hands. It represents classic extreme climbing.
VII Seventh grade
Minimal and widely spaced holds and/or holds are present. Requires sophisticated training with special development of finger strength, balance skills and grip techniques. This is where modern sport climbing begins.
GPS coordinates attachment: 33T 0306215 ; 5140542
Access:
From Cimolais take the road (tourist signposts) leading into Val Cimoliana (in summer there is a charge) and follow it for a long distance to the car park of the Pordenone Refuge (about 18 km). The hut is reached in 5 minutes. From here starts the path which, first through a beautiful beech wood and then along strenuous gravel, leads up the Val Montanaia, right to the base of the Campanile.
Once near the wall, follow an evident track that leads to the base of the east side. A short ascending ramp to the left leads around an edge, a further 20 m of ascent on easy rocks leads to the attack at a marked crack - pitons with a cord at the base (1.30-2.00 hrs).
If you are coming from far away, it is a good idea to spend the night before the ascent at the beautiful Rifugio Pordenone, in order to tackle the ascent early in the morning.
