
Discovering Santa Margherita del Gruagno

For a cyclist like me, the Zoncolan is a symbolic mountain. But when this peak dresses in white it becomes a sacred mountain for all Friulian skiers. It is a pleasure for me to go back to those slopes where I first learned to ski about 35 years ago. It is even more so to return with Marta, who, like me, carries this mountain in her heart for the same reasons.
The snow is excellent, the large numbers of people are well distributed along the 22 km of well prepared slopes, and the view from the highest point of the ski area (Monte Tamai, 1970m) is nothing short of spectacular: the view stretches as far as the Adriatic! And this mountain is located at the centre of Carnia and so it offers a 360° view over the villages, valleys and mountains that ar so dear to us.
Between one descent and another you burn calories and the smell of cooking that emerges from the mountain huts invites you to stop. And there is plenty choice, both as to which hut to choose and which dish from the menu: sausage, frico, polenta, cheeses, sausages, pasta, grilled meat, fish... forgive me if I dwell on the dishes but I’m really hungry!
The music invites us to dance, ski boots on out feet, as we wait for our coffee. We do not really want to leave but the call of the skis is too strong.
There’s still time for a few runs just to get over the guilt of eating so many delicacies. The snow is still good and the sun is bathing the slopes. You feel like going on forever, but we have an essential appointment: the spa awaits us, and there's a discounted price for those who have a day's ski pass. We hop in the car and at Sutrio we stop before the bridge: a cheese tasting awaits us at the Alto But cheese factory, which is again included in the price of the skipass; it’s tough being a skier! We are greeted by the smiles of the girls who serve us an excellent selection of zero-mile cheeses, full of the fragrances of the Friulian mountains.
We get back in the car and in five minutes we are at the Arta thermal baths: in a word, relaxation. The structure within is striking for its new designer furniture, for the care taken over details and for its cleanliness. The kind and smiling staff, directs us towards the beauty centre. The massage helps the muscles to melt the fatigue of the skiing; half an hour when you seem to be reborn in the expert hands of the masseuses, but it is not over: the Jacuzzi invites us to be pampered by its bubbles, then a dip in the pool and we head towards the wellness area on the top floor, where we are immediately won over by the charm of antique wood that elegantly adorns the spa.
The eye relaxes on admiring all the green that surrounds the baths from the large windows. Sauna, Turkish bath, Kneipp, sensory showers: everything assures wellness. It is evening and time to go home, regenerated and with the desire to repeat a day of pure energy in the mountains of Carnia.
Find out about the ideas and offers for this experience in Friuli Venezia Giulia