That a medieval castle was the fulcrum of the territorial social life, is well known. That the Lupa fortress still dominates the surroundings today on the square with a well, is visible in the ancient village of Valvasone, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. In particular, the small wooden theatre, in private hands, is the smallest in Italy and is the main reason for our outing today.

It is located inside the castle, built over a late Romanesque defensive structure, a building that hosted popes and emperors. Acquired by the municipal administration with the commitment to restore its beauty and preserve it, after twenty-five years of restoration, it is now possible to visit the lower part of the castle, containing the rooms dedicated to ceremonies and the cosy little theatre.

“The Counts of Valvasone originally used it for private performances, noble ceremonies, with openings during the year for the populace”, says the guide who accompanies us. Tradition in the provincial towns of Friuli was for a theatre that was a centre of social life. They were perhaps not used for opera, but for reciting fables, farce or melodrama and lesser dramatic performances.

Frescoed in light colours, the theatre is decorated with mythological and bucolic scenes including a series of putti. A little curious point: among the male putti is a blond-haired female putto receiving a floral tribute. The theatre has only one raised row of stalls, and the seating capacity perhaps does not total even fifty people. Our visiting group was fortunate enough to listen to a young musician, a local talent who evocatively played the accordion, giving rise to imaginary dancing figures.

It is worth considering a new use of the theatre now that all the plant conforms to current standards: the theatre and halls can be rented by individuals and companies to create an event in a unique context.

Later, our visit has been extended to the village of Valvasone, also called Borgo delle spose (‘Brides’ hamlet’) since 2001, because here every service can be found for a bride to have an unforgettable day in dreamland. It's also worth taking a couple of hours to walk just outside the town wall and see the public wash house, the narrow lanes, the large restored porticos, the palace of Count Eugenio and the beauty of Casa Fortuni with its fourteenth-century well.

Do not miss the old fifteenth-century water mill with its revolving wheel, the houses with medieval traces, gothic and mullioned windows, wrought- iron gates and balustrades. Brick, stone and pebbles are among the materials used to build with. The well-restored houses today compete for a decoration or a vine left on the façade to beautify the whole.

In the Romanesque Duomo with neo-Gothic rebulding, there is an enchanting Venetian organ of the sixteenth century still in working condition, and the relic of the Sacred Tablecloth. Inside the Chapel of S.Pietro and S.Paolo, fourteenth century, used for curing the sick in medieval times, there are frescoed walls with a fine Crucifixion.

Take a look at the Dominican Monastery with the stream: if you are lucky, you will see it set up for an exhibition that enhances the structures. Another reason to return to Valvasone is the opportunity of seeing the spectacular historical re-enactment that animates the village every year in September, with the streets full of people in medieval costumes.

For a gastronomic experience, have a look at the inn in Piazza Castello. We enjoyed the turkey roll stuffed with herbs and sausage, the Treviso radicchio simmered with potatoes and rosemary and the ricotta tart.

To buy local wines, travel a few kilometres along the road to S. Martino al Tagliamento, where you will find an outlet selling wine direct from the cellar. The building built to resemble a manor is worth a visit. Finally, if you still have a couple of hours, allow for a trip to Coderno for a visit to the home of Father David Maria Turoldo.