Repepeit Main Fall

Access: From Chiusaforte go up the Raccolana Valley and, after the Ponte Corite bridge (second bridge), proceed for one kilometre as far as a small car park in correspondence of a bend, just in front of the main fall of the Repepeit Stream
Departure: A path, which starts just before the bend, descends towards the river crossing it by means of a bridge. Then go up to the orographic left of the Raccolana Stream, next to a water pipe, until reaching the base of the fall (10 min.).
Difficulty: II, 5+, 120 m. Carefully check the quality of the ice
Descent: Rappel, anchorages on trees

DESCRIPTION:
It is the queen of the valley. Vertical and well-structured, it features two demanding stretches, the first of which is definitely hard with stalactite and cauliflower ice formations. It is not formed every year and conditions must be assessed carefully, both for the quality of the ice and for the stability of the whole structure.

Legend of the technical data of the climb

Level of difficulty
I Short fall, near the road, with equipped stop areas and an easy descent.
II One or two climb lengths near the road, few objective dangers, rappel or easy climbing descent.
III A fall made up of several stretches, not very high, which may require several hours of climbing or may take some time to reach on foot or with skis. Good knowledge of the winter environment is required. There may be some objective dangers.
IV A way consisting of several stretches, very long and situated in a far place. Good Alpine skills and experience in winter approaches are required. There may be some objective dangers due to avalanches, fall of stones or ice. Demanding rappel to be equipped.
V Long climb on a high mountain face, it requires good Alpine skills and is exposed to avalanches and weather change. Difficult descent and dangerous and non-equipped possible retreat.
VI Long itinerary on a high mountain face, hardly repeatable on the same day. It may present logistic problems due to its length, objective dangers, high altitude and isolation.

Technical difficulty
1 Climb on ice of moderate slope (50° - 60°)
2 Rope length at 60° - 70° with good quality ice. Good stop areas and protections.
3 70° - 80° slope with thick and solid ice. Short steep stretches alternating with resting areas. Good stopping areas and protections.
4 Continuous rope length, almost vertical with good stopping areas, or not very long vertical stretch. The quality of the ice is generally good and the protections are satisfactory.
5 A rope length in which excellent technical skills are essential. Verticality for about 20/25 metres on quite good ice. It requires experience and the capability of driving pitons into complex ice formations.
6 Very difficult rope length, without stopping areas and completely vertical. The ice is very difficult to protect and has particular formations that require a high technical and training level.
7 Vertical length or with overhanging stretches on thin ice or ice with bad cohesion. Almost useless protections on ice, it requires optimum psychophysical conditions.

The addition of the letter M indicates the mixed difficulty (that is to say, rock climbing with an axe and crampons), X indicates the risk of collapse of the structure. The sketches indicate the average slopes of the ice in the various sections.