Technical data:
- First climbers: S. De Infanti and R. Simonetti, 1979
- Difficulty: 5b max
- Length: 100 m
- Duration: 1.30-2 hours
- Peak altitude: 1,500 m
- Cartography: Tabacco map 1:25000 sheet No. 09 - Carnic Alps - Central Carnia
- Material: normal mountaineering equipment; hammer and nails not specifically needed, possibly some quickdraws. A single rope of 60 m is sufficient.
- The normal mountaineering equipment consists of:
- Individual equipment (harness, helmet, shoes and belayer/descender)
- 2x60m half ropes
- Hammer and a bunch of nails
- Quickdraws (1 set nuts + 1 set friends)
- 1 set expresset (at least 10)
- climbing loops and locking carabiners for belaying and abseiling
Description:
The De Infanti route is on the far-left side of the wall. Overlook the bolts visible to the right related to the more challenging Via Centrale and Via Dorigo. The ascent consists of four tracks, the first of which is the most demanding. All the ferrata take place on beautiful rock walls and are well equipped with bolts.
Descent
Abseil along the climb or from the last stop continue for another 20m on easy II grade rocks until you reach the edge of the forest. Take the left and through woods and meadows return to the Casera (15 minutes).
GPS coordinates: 33T 0341185; 5162140
Scale of mountaineering difficulties
The evaluations are carried out considering the mountain in good weather conditions and with a physical and psychological preparation suitable for the chosen level. The scale used is the one officially recognized by the UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations); the scale designed by W. Welzenbach in 1925. The difficulties are assessed in free climbing, e.g., without the use of artificial means for progression. Each grade may have a further subdivision higher (+) or lower (-).
I First grade
It’s the easiest kind of climbing. Often there is a trace of passage between the rocks, but it is already necessary to choose the support for the feet; the hands frequently use the handholds to maintain balance. It’s not suitable for people with vertigo.
II Second grade
Here real climbing begins, that requires the movement of a limb at a time and a proper setting of the movements. Holds and supports are still abundant.
III Third grade
The rock structure, already steeper or even vertical, offers more handholds and supports and can already require the use of force. Typically, the passages are not solved yet in an obliged matter.
IV Fourth grade
Handholds and supports become even more rare and/or small. It requires a good climbing technique applied to the various rock structures (chimneys, cracks, edges, etc.), as well as a certain degree of specific training.
V Fifth grade
Holds and supports are very rare and small. Climbing becomes delicate (slabs, etc.) or hard (by opposition or interlocking in slits and chimneys). Usually requires the prior examination of the passage.
VI Sixth grade
Handholds and/or supports are small and arranged so as to require a particular combination of movements well studied. The rocky structure may force you to climb a very delicate of very hard where overhanging. Requires special training and considerable strength in the arms and hands. It represents extreme classic climbing.
VII Seventh grade
There are handholds and/or supports very small and widely spaced. It requires a sophisticated training with particular development of finger strength, skill in balancing and grip techniques. This is where modern climbing begins.
Access:
Follow the state road 52b that leads from Timau to Passo Monte Croce Carnico. Turn left at the 3rd hairpin turn on a forest road that in a couple of km leads to the Val di Collina. Depending on the condition of the road, it is sometimes possible to arrive here even with a normal car. Hike uphill to the meadows behind the Casera and you arrive at the climbing wall, first bolts at sight (10 minutes).
