
Discovering Santa Margherita del Gruagno

Leaving Udine for a relaxing day out, we decided to explore the Collio zone, to see it under a different light and with a different atmosphere thanks to the rain and leaden sky of a Saturday in March. The Collio is a lovely area that includes the hills in the north of the province of Gorizia and on to the border with Slovenia.
We travelled through the vineyards to Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli (Gorizia province). This fascinating historical residence is surrounded by lush greenery and is notable amongst other things for having once hosted the famous Giacomo Casanova when he stayed once in Friuli. That visit has left a legacy of numerous stories plus a fine wine called, appropriately, Casanova, made by the Castello di Spessa estate.
Spessa marks the start of an itinerary called the Sentiero delle vigne alte (High Vineyards Route). About 3 km long and wandering through Collio’s woods and beautiful vineyards, the trail can be done on foot, by mountain-bike or on horseback.
The route starts from Castello di Spessa and goes to La Subida estate in Cormons (Gorizia province). After a walk along the route we got back in our car and headed towards San Floriano del Collio. This very scenic route on narrow, climbing roads leads to Castello Formentini, a beautiful mediaeval castle built in the 11th century and since 1520 the property of the Counts Formentini.
We stopped to enjoy the wonderful view; on clear days you can see as far as the sea. We took a break to enjoy a glass of red wine at the wine shop in the castle gardens.
For cycling enthusiasts there’s a cycle trail which starts in San Floriano and from the castle takes you through vineyards to the border with Slovenia. You pass numerous wine cellars, farms and characteristic eateries along the way where you can take a break to enjoy the dishes of Gorizia’s traditional cuisine and drink excellent wine.
Spessa and Formentini castles are closed to the public during the year, except for special events organised by the owners and for Castelli Aperti FVG (“Open Castles”), which is held in April and October.
Find out about the ideas and offers for this experience in Friuli Venezia Giulia